If you are interested in the world of haute horlogerie, you have probably come across the term “Holy Trinity of watches.” This exclusive trio consists of long-established luxury watch manufacturers whose creations have shaped the watch world for centuries. But which brands are part of this elite trinity and is their place on the pedestal justified? We’re taking a closer look at Holy Trinity watches.
Where does the concept of the Holy Trinity come from?
The idea of the Trinity is of religious origin, more specifically from Christianity. The Holy Trinity stands for the Father (God), the Son (Jesus Christ), and the Holy Spirit (the Spirit of God). In the Christian faith, these three entities are united in one being, God. It may seem a little presumptuous to apply the concept of the Holy Trinity to wristwatches. But if you look at the detailed craftsmanship and rich history of these three Swiss watchmakers, you may start to understand the association. The term “Holy Trinity of watches” was first used in the 1970s – precisely at a time when the Swiss watch industry was in an extremely precarious situation due to the quartz crisis. Using this lofty term was probably a clever marketing move to differentiate themselves from cheaper competition from the Far East. And a success move it was, as we well know today.
The Holy Trinity of the Watch World
Which watch brands belong to the Holy Trinity?
The Holy Trinity of the watch world consists of Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. What all three brands have in common is their long history, the impeccable quality of their products, and numerous inventions that have had a lasting impact on the world of watches. Vacheron Constantin, for example, began making watches as early as 1755 and was the first company to create a pocket watch with an additional complication. As early as 1885, VC presented a watch that was insensitive to magnetic fields. Among other things, we have Patek Philippe to thank for the winding crown that we take for granted today. And Audemars Piguet can boast of having created the first pocket watch with a minute repeater. As you can see, each individual manufacturer stands for the finest savoir-faire and unbroken continuity, which, untouched by time and trends, always focuses on the highest manufacturing standards. Watches from the big three brands are masterpieces of the art of watchmaking and have always been the preferred choice of the rich and famous. This select clientele in turn contributes to the nimbus of the brands and turns the timepieces into prestigious status objects.
Popular Holy Trinity Watches
As the most popular model from Audemars Piguet, the Royal Oak with its classic Genta design has wormed its way into the hearts of many watch enthusiasts. First presented in 1972, the watch with its integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, and visible decorative screws initially seemed to be a flop. As we know today, things changed and the Royal Oak developed into one of the most sought-after wristwatches ever. The Royal Oak has since grown into a full-blown collection that offers everything from a simple two-hand watch to an elaborate Grande Complication. For many, Patek Philippe is synonymous with the Nautilus. This model was also designed by Gérald Genta and speaks a similar design language to the Royal Oak. True Patek fans, however, prefer to go for one of the many Calatrava models, which shine with their simple elegance and understatement. Those who prefer a more opulent look can opt for models with sophisticated complications. These are not only genuine works of art, but also among the most exclusive timepieces in existence. With the exception of the Overseas models, Vacheron Constantin stands for classic dress watches with sophisticated complications. Collections such as the Patrimony, Traditionelle, and Fiftysix offer a wide selection of elegant watches for almost every occasion. In the Métiers d’Art series, Vacheron Constantin demonstrates the full range of its craftsmanship.
Why not other brands?
Some may wonder why top dog Rolex is not part of the Holy Trinity of watches. One factor here is that Rolex has never excelled in watches with sophisticated complications. Company founder Hans Wilsdorf had the practical function of a watch in mind when designing his masterpieces. Movements from Rolex are therefore extremely accurate and technically advanced, but rather boring compared to movements from Patek or Vacheron. The fact that Rolex specializes primarily in sporty tool watches is another factor.
What about Jaeger-LeCoultre and Breguet?
Two names that are often mentioned in connection with the Holy Trinity are Breguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre – and for good reason. After all, Breguet founder Abraham-Louis Breguet is considered the father of modern watchmaking. He is responsible for countless inventions that are still used in every wristwatch to this day. Jaeger-LeCoultre is generally known as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” having supplied movements to virtually every major watch manufacturer at one time or another. The top sellers of the Holy Trinity – the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and 222/Overseas – were also powered by calibers based on those from JLC. So why don’t these large and traditional brands belong to the illustrious circle of the Trinity? Breguet’s eventful history is probably the decisive reason. The manufacturer was hit hard by the quartz crisis in the 1970s. This was followed by numerous changes of ownership, which brought the business to the brink of ruin. Only since takeover by the Swatch Group in 1999 has Breguet been back in calmer waters. The reason why Jaeger-LeCoultre is not part of the Holy Trinity probably has to do with the fact that the brand has long been perceived more as a supplier of movements. By 1900, the manufacturer could already boast more than 350 different movements and was the main movement supplier for Cartier and Patek Philippe in the early 20th century. Although JLC has repeatedly caused a stir with watches such as the Atmos or highly complicated timepieces, it was never quite able to step out of the shadow of Patek and Co. However, attitudes towards JLC have changed considerably in recent years, and many see the Maison as part of the Holy Trinity in place of Audemars Piguet.
Audemars Piguet Under Fire
The harshest criticism of the Holy Trinity of watches is leveled at Audemars Piguet. The brand is often accused of centering its entire existence on the Royal Oak. As a result, many watch enthusiasts feel that the manufacturer’s place as part of the Holy Trinity is unjustified. Audemars Piguet is a one trick pony in their opinion.
Final Thoughts
The question of which brands belong to the Holy Trinity of watches is a rather contentious issue. It’s not a bad idea to just go ahead and choose your own personal trinity. After all, why commit to just one Grail watch when you can choose three?
