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Rolex Sky-Dweller 326933 Unworn Gold/Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Sky-Dweller 42mm Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold 326933
AU$ 26,797
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
215
US
Rolex Datejust 116139 New White gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex 116139 Datejust
AU$ 28,528
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST.OO.1220ST.02 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet 15500ST.OO.1220ST.02 Royal Oak
AU$ 39,448
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A Unworn Steel 39mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus Stainless-Steel Moon Phase Watch...
AU$ 245,648
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
215
US
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver 263-36 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver "Blue Surf"
AU$ 6,698
Verified Dealer
8
US
Rolex GMT-Master II 126715CHNR New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref 126715CHNR Everose Gold NEW 2019...
AU$ 59,064
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
104
IT
Bulgari Octo OC41C6SPGLD 102703 New Gold/Steel 41mm Automatic
Bulgari Octo Roma
AU$ 7,435
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26175ST.OO.D003CU.01 Very good Steel Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronographe GENTLEMAN DRIVER
AU$ 30,539
Verified Dealer
38
CH
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Very good 36mm
Rolex DayDate
AU$ 22,175
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
6
US
Zenith El Primero 36'000 VpH 03.2080.400/21.C496 New Steel 42mm Automatic
Zenith El Primero 42mm
AU$ 8,171
Verified Dealer
686
NL
Oris Big Crown ProPilot 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC New Titanium 44mm Manual winding Australia, Ryde
Oris Big Crown ProPilot
AU$ 10,200
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 114300 Unworn Steel 39mm Automatic
Rolex Oyster Perpetual New 2019 Full set
AU$ 9,013
Verified Dealer
30
PL
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, SURRY HILLS
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
AU$ 15,500
Private Seller
 
AU
Rolex Datejust II 126331 New Gold/Steel 41mm Automatic
Rolex Datejust II 126331
AU$ 17,121
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
86
US
Longines Présence L4.921.4.52.2 New Steel 38.5mm Automatic
Longines Présence Automatic 38,5mm
AU$ 1,428
Verified Dealer
5919
DE
Baume & Mercier Promesse M0A10184 Unworn Steel 30mm Automatic
Baume & Mercier Promesse
AU$ 5,023
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Panerai Radiomir Black Seal PAM 292 Very good Ceramic 45mm
Panerai Radiomir BlackSeal Keramik PAM 292, 45mm
AU$ 8,237
Verified Dealer
112
DE
Rolex Datejust 116200 Very good 36mm
Rolex - Mens 36mm SS DateJust Silver Roman Dial - 116200 SANT...
AU$ 8,374
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
6
US
Rolex Daytona 116509 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex Daytona 116509
AU$ 42,356
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
719
US
Oris Aquis 01 735 7673 4185-Set RS Very good Steel 46mm Automatic Australia, Ryde
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef II Limited Edition
AU$ 2,990
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Franck Muller Conquistador GPG 9900 CC DT GPG Good Titanium 48mm Automatic
Franck Muller Conquistador 9900 CC DT GPG , Arabisch, 2015,...
AU$ 13,289
Verified Dealer
283
DE
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 16623 Very good Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, Caulfield South
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
AU$ 13,678
Private Seller
 
AU
Baume & Mercier Classima Good Steel 42mm Automatic
Baume & Mercier Classima XL
AU$ 752
Verified Dealer
73
CH
TAG Heuer Monaco CAW211R.FC6401 GULF Unworn Steel 39mm Automatic
TAG Heuer Monaco CAW211R.FC6401 GULF
AU$ 6,108
Verified Dealer
2137
MC
Breitling Navitimer 8 A13314101C1X1 New Steel 43mm Automatic
Breitling Navitimer 8
AU$ 5,599
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.90.38.20.03.001 New Titanium 43mm Automatic
Omega オメガ シーマスター プラネットオーシャン 600M 自動巻き 232.90.38.20.03.001 腕時計...
AU$ 5,413
Verified Dealer
16
JP
Omega Speedmaster '57 New Gold/Steel 41.5mm Automatic
Omega Speedmaster '57 Co-Axial Chronograph 41.5mm 331.20.42.51...
AU$ 18,063
Verified Dealer
124
UK
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15450ST.OO.1256ST.03 New Steel 37mm Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Blue Dial Stainless Steel 37mm NEW
AU$ 37,220
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
266
US
Oris Divers Sixty Five 01 733 7707 4355-07 8 20 17 New Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, Ryde
Oris Divers Sixty Five Two Tone
AU$ 3,000
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Breguet Classique Complications 5317BR/12/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Tourbillon, new official retail price:...
AU$ 120,850
Verified Dealer
36
CH
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2A84.FC6394 Very good Titanium 43mm Automatic Australia, kENSINGTON
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
AU$ 4,560
Private Seller
 
AU
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic PAM 00535 Good Steel 42mm Automatic
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT RARE Hobnail Dial
AU$ 8,485
Verified Dealer
 
US
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 1625 Good Steel 36mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph
AU$ 4,900
Verified Dealer
 
AU
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 CAZ2011.FT8024 New Steel 44mm Automatic
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibro 16 Full Black
AU$ 3,463
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Rolex Datejust II 116333 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic
Rolex Datejust II 2-Tone Gold/Steel 41MM 116333 w/ Diamond...
AU$ 20,664
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
US
Rolex Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Australia, MOUNT WAVERLEY
TOP
Rolex 16220
AU$ 6,800
Private Seller
 
AU
Omega De Ville Prestige New White gold 39.5mm Automatic
Omega De Ville Prestige Power Reserve Co-Axial 424.53.40.21.04...
AU$ 16,118
Verified Dealer
124
UK
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2A1AB.BA0738 Unworn Steel 43mm Automatic Australia, Docklands
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
AU$ 6,300
Private Seller
 
AU
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 79350 New Steel 41mm Automatic Australia, Ryde
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph
AU$ 6,550
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Day-Date 36 118348 New Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36, new, official retail price: 48.300 CHF
AU$ 51,885
Verified Dealer
36
CH
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Nedu DC3026A-SC-BK Very good Titanium 42mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
TOP
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Nedu
AU$ 3,900
Private Seller
 
AU
Panerai Radiomir 3 Days 47mm PAM 00504 # PAM504 Unworn Ceramic 47mm Manual winding
TOP
Panerai PAM 504 RADIOMIR COMPOSITE 3 Days - NET EXPORT
AU$ 8,501
Verified Dealer
23
DE
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179174 Good 26mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
AU$ 7,429
Private Seller
 
AU
IWC Pilot Worldtimer IW326201 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic Australia, Poowong
TOP
IWC Pilot Worldtimer
AU$ 9,000
Private Seller
 
AU
Oris Big Crown ProPilot GMT 01 748 7710 4184-SET New Steel 45mm Automatic
Oris Big Crown ProPilot
AU$ 3,871
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Rolex Datejust Very good Steel 31mm Automatic
Rolex Datejust Midsize 2-Tone Gold/Steel 31mm Oyster w/Black...
AU$ 9,871
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
67
US
Omega Seamaster 14770 SC61 Very good 34mm Automatic
Omega Seamaster Automatic 14770 Sc61 Caliber 562 Case 34 Mm...
AU$ 1,772
Verified Dealer
UY
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 01 111 7711 4165-Set 1 22 72FC New Steel 44mm Manual winding Australia, Ryde
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111
AU$ 6,300
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Datejust 178288 New Yellow gold 31mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 31, new, official retail price: 39.600 CHF
AU$ 44,488
Verified Dealer
36
CH
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV201AH.BA0725 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic Australia, preston
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
AU$ 4,450
Private Seller
 
AU
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 813.043 New Rose gold 36.1mm Manual winding
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Soiree 813.043 Diamond Bezel...
AU$ 57,542
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
407
US
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V/110A-B126 New Steel 41.00mm Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date Stainless Steel / Silver -...
AU$ 28,801
Verified Dealer
574
JP
Seiko 6119-5401 Good Steel 33mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
Seiko Vintage
AU$ 850
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Breitling Avenger II A13381111B2A1 New Steel 43mm Automatic
Breitling AVENGER II ACCIAIO - NERO VOLCANO
AU$ 6,539
Verified Dealer
267
IT
Girard Perregaux GP 4900 Very good Steel 38mm Automatic
Girard Perregaux GP 4900 Olimpico pinkgold - steel Chronograph...
AU$ 2,724
Verified Dealer
202
DE
Michel Jordi SIM-200-07-002-01 New Steel 42mm Automatic
Michel Jordi Paradelplatz Men's Watch
AU$ 2,047
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
491
US
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 01 754 7741 4065-07 5 20 63 New Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, Ryde
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
AU$ 2,200
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Datejust 116188 New Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36, new, official retail price: 29.800 CHF
AU$ 30,308
Verified Dealer
36
CH
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR New Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” 126710BLNR // New full stickers
AU$ 27,238
Verified Dealer
24
FR
Longines Flagship Heritage L4.795.4.78.2 Good Automatic Australia, HAWTHORN
Longines Heritage Flagship L4.795.4 Automatic L615
AU$ 1,400
Private Seller
 
AU
Rolex Lady-Datejust 178273 G New Yellow gold 31mm Automatic
Rolex Datejust 31 Rolesor Yellow Fluted / Oyster / Silver Diamond
AU$ 16,097
Verified Dealer
574
JP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15710ST.OO.A027CA.01 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver
AU$ 29,500
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Zenith Defy 87.9001.670/79.R589 New Rose gold 41mm Automatic
Zenith Defy Classic
AU$ 11,720
Verified Dealer
267
IT
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar 5021 Very good 44mm
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 18K RG 5021
AU$ 28,872
Verified Dealer
112
DE
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Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.


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