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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15710ST.OO.A010CA.01 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Stainless Steel White...
AU$ 27,940
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
218
US
Rolex Day-Date 40 228239 New White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 40
AU$ 57,226
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
218
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST.OO.1220ST.03 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 41mm Mens Watch - 15500s
AU$ 37,204
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
218
US
Rolex Daytona 116500LN New Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, NSW
TOP
Rolex Daytona white dial
AU$ 35,500
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Datejust 116233 Very good 36mm
Rolex - 18kt Gold Stainless Mens DateJust White ARABIC Jubilee...
AU$ 11,580
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
 
US
Seiko 5 Sports SNZF15J1 New Steel 40.5mm Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SNZF15J1
AU$ 270
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Day-Date 36 1803 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 Champagne Pie-Pan dial Clawmarkers 1963
AU$ 22,792
Verified Dealer
262
NL
Breitling Chronomat Colt A17313101F1A1 Unworn Steel 41.1mm Automatic
Breitling Colt A17313101F1A1
AU$ 3,730
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
IWC Pilot Chronograph IW377714 Good Steel 43mm Automatic Australia, north sydney
TOP
IWC Pilot Chronograph
AU$ 5,000
Private Seller
 
AU
Rolex Submariner (No Date) 14060 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Submariner No-Date
AU$ 12,764
Verified Dealer
1258
NL
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Q1368470 Very good Steel 39mm Automatic Australia, sydney
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon
AU$ 8,000
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 3346-126/92 // 3346-126-5/92 New Rose gold 42mm Automatic
Ulysse Nardin Dual Time
AU$ 14,514
Verified Dealer
 
CH
Rolex Daytona 116518LN New Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
Rolex 116518ln Daytona 18k Yellow Gold Champagne Black Rubber...
AU$ 48,560
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
 
US
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179163 Very good 26mm
Rolex 26mm Ladies Rolex 79163
AU$ 10,534
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
 
US
Seiko New Steel Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SKX007J2 SKX007J JAPAN
AU$ 490
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman NEW 2019 Jubilee Bracelet
AU$ 26,745
Verified Dealer
26
US
Cartier Ballon Bleu 42mm W2BB0004 Unworn Gold/Steel 42mm Automatic
Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier W2BB0004
AU$ 15,913
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
Franck Muller 41V SC DT 5n D Unworn Automatic Australia, 4215
TOP
Franck Muller Vangard Yachting 721
AU$ 37,354
Private Seller
 
AU
Breitling Superocean Héritage AB0162121B1A1 New Steel 44mm Automatic
Breitling SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE B01 44mm AB0162121B1A1
AU$ 8,951
Verified Dealer
885
UK
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00632 New Steel 44mm Manual winding
Panerai Luminor Marina Logo Acciaio NEW PAM00632
AU$ 6,622
Verified Dealer
681
NL
Breguet Marine 8827ST/59/586 New Steel 35mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Marine, new, closing down sale, official price: 19.000...
AU$ 17,385
Verified Dealer
30
CH
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 101.121 Good Yellow gold 38.5mm Manual winding
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Gelbgold 101.121
AU$ 23,041
Verified Dealer
205
DE
Rolex Day-Date 18946 Very good 39mm
Rolex Men's 39mm MasterPiece
AU$ 82,103
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
 
US
Seiko New Steel 41mm Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SKX009J2 SKX009J JAPAN
AU$ 490
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN NEW 2019
AU$ 20,096
Verified Dealer
26
US
TAG Heuer Carrera CBM2110.FC6454 Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic
TAG Heuer Carrera CBM2110.FC6454
AU$ 4,558
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
Benzinger 6701217 Unworn Steel 42mm Manual winding Australia, Wanneroo
TOP
Benzinger Frosted Barley II
AU$ 7,955
Private Seller
 
AU
Longines Very good Steel Automatic
Longines Automatic anti magnetic Vintage with his original box...
AU$ 1,656
Verified Dealer
545
AT
Chopard Mille Miglia 8920 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Chopard Mille Miglia 40mm Steel Automatic Black 8920 Full Set
AU$ 3,811
Verified Dealer
681
DE
Rolex Datejust 178288 New Yellow gold 31mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 31, new, closing down sale - off. pr.: 37.700 CHF
AU$ 37,039
Verified Dealer
30
CH
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days PAM 00422 Good Steel 47mm Manual winding Australia, sydney
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days
AU$ 7,900
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M 212.30.41.20.01.003 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M 212.30.41.20.01.003, Strichindizes...
AU$ 5,089
Verified Dealer
159
DE
Seiko New Steel 42mm Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SKX009K2 SKX009
AU$ 443
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Yacht-Master 37 268621 New Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master 37mm UNWORN 2019 Two-Tone 268621
AU$ 20,171
Verified Dealer
26
US
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M 210.32.42.20.03.001 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic
Omega Seamaster 210.32.42.20.03.001
AU$ 5,470
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 145.022 - 69 ST Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding Australia, Sandringham
TOP
Omega 145022 69 straight watches
AU$ 11,500
Private Seller
 
AU
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 226659 New White gold 42mm Automatic
Rolex 18 K. Yacht-Master 42 New 2019 VAT Ref.
AU$ 47,988
Verified Dealer
262
NL
10001-01 Very good Steel 38mm Automatic
Speake Marin Serpent Calendar "Piccadilly Case" 10001-01
AU$ 10,310
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
663
US
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster 80285 New Rose gold 29mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Pearlmaster 29, new, closing down sale, off. pr.: 78.400...
AU$ 72,568
Verified Dealer
30
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Thin Q1358420 Good Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, sydney
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Thin
AU$ 5,500
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Longines Conquest Classic L2.785.5.56.7 Good 40mm Automatic
Longines Conquest Classic L2.785.5.56.7, Strichindizes, 2015,...
AU$ 3,116
Verified Dealer
159
DE
Seiko New Steel 38mm Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SKX013 SKX013K2
AU$ 445
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Junghans max bill Hand-winding 027/3602.04 New Steel 34mm Manual winding
Junghans 027/3602.04 Damenuhr max bill Handaufzug
AU$ 1,036
Verified Dealer
 
DE
Breitling Superocean Héritage A13313121B1S1 Unworn Steel 44mm Automatic
Breitling Superocean Heritage A13313121B1S1
AU$ 6,299
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR Very good Steel 40mm Automatic Australia, Sydney
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II
AU$ 25,900
Private Seller
 
AU
Rolex Rolex Good Yellow gold Manual winding
Rolex 9ct gold
AU$ 2,944
Verified Dealer
67
UK
Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker 6119-130 New Platinum 43mm Automatic Australia, Melbourne
Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Erotica Jarretiere
AU$ 151,256
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
26
AU
Rolex Lady-Datejust 179384 New Steel 26mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26, new, closing down sale, o.p.: 16.700 CHF
AU$ 15,117
Verified Dealer
30
CH
Rolex Air King 116900 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Air King-LC100-Neuzustand-mit Papieren-aus 2017
AU$ 9,100
Verified Dealer
 
DE
Rolex Lady-Datejust 279381RBR-0004G New Automatic
Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 Chocolate Steel/18k Everose Gold 28mm -...
AU$ 24,742
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
1530
US
Seiko SBDY043 New Steel Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SBDY043
Price on request
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Unworn Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV blue LC100 2019/10 unworn Box&Papers
AU$ 14,239
Verified Dealer
30
DE
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph 521.NX.1171.RX Unworn Titanium 45mm Automatic
Hublot Classic Fusion 521.NX.1171.RX
AU$ 11,520
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2A84.FC6394 Very good Titanium 43mm Automatic Australia, kENSINGTON
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
AU$ 4,560
Private Seller
 
AU
Omega De Ville Ladymatic 425.68.34.20.55.001 New Red gold 34mm Automatic
Omega De Ville Ladymatic 34 mm Co-Axial Red Gold Diamonds...
AU$ 19,875
Verified Dealer
850
BE
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 116655 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic Australia, sydney
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
AU$ 32,000
Verified Dealer
 
AU
Breguet Classique 5140BB/29/9W6 New White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique 40, new, closing down sale - off. pr. 19.400...
AU$ 17,385
Verified Dealer
30
CH
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR-0002 New Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-MASTER II 126710BLNR BATMAN 40mm SS Black Blue UNWORN
AU$ 23,158
Verified Dealer
US
Cartier Tank Américaine W2603156 1740 Very good Yellow gold 27mm Automatic
Cartier Tank Americaine W2603156 1740, Römisch, 1998, Sehr...
AU$ 8,503
Verified Dealer
159
DE
Seiko New Steel 42mm Automatic Australia, Kingsdene
Seiko SKX007J1 SKX007J JAPAN
AU$ 445
Verified Dealer
 
AU
TAG Heuer Carrera New Steel 44mm Automatic
TAG Heuer CV2A1R.BA0799 Tag Heuer Carrera CAL 16 Mens Watch...
AU$ 4,714
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
11
US
Tudor Black Bay 79363N Unworn Steel 41mm Automatic
Tudor Black Bay 79363N
AU$ 8,918
Verified Dealer
2011
MC
TAG Heuer Monaco CAW211U.FC6356 Unworn Automatic Australia, Perth
TOP
TAG Heuer Monaco PVD Limited Edition No 38/50
AU$ 18,250
Private Seller
 
AU
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 43172/000R-9241 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic Australia, Melbourne
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked...
AU$ 184,242
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
26
AU
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Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.


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