Summer is coming to a close, and that can only mean one thing: one of the most important events in the luxury watch calendar is around the corner. We’re gearing up for this year’s edition of Geneva Watch Days, and are looking forward to the many new releases that await us. Our team is on site from August 29th to September 1st to get up close and personal with a number of different watch brands. Bulgari, Frederique Constant, and Maurice Lacroix are just some of the big names that will be presenting new models in Switzerland.
Whether you want to scout out the latest trends from your favorite watch brands, admire exceptional designs, or experience the hustle and bustle of the world of luxury watches, we’ll be updating our live ticker with the latest news throughout the event. So stay tuned and join us at Geneva Watch Days 2023!
Update: Friday, September 1
The Girard-Perrgaux Laureato Levels Up With the New Absolute Chronograph 8Tech
Girard-Perregaux has had a lot of success with the Laureato in recent years. The brand’s popular luxury sports watch complete with integrated bracelet is a more affordable alternative to the Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The current Laureato collection consists of a series of great modern versions based on the 1975 original. Now, Girard-Perregaux is unveiling their latest model: the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech. It’s a chronograph variant of the Laureato that features an octagonal carbon case and is part of the Laureato Absolute collection, which celebrates the use of new cutting-edge materials.
The Absolute Chronograph 8Tech’s 44-mm case is constructed from a combination of carbon fibers and lightweight titanium powder formed into thin, superimposed layers. In a gripping twist, the orientation of the layers changes, giving the final piece a unique look. The watch is also five times lighter than its steel counterparts. The sandwich dial features three sandblasted subdials, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and a beautiful handset. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber GP03300-1058, which is visible through the smoky sapphire crystal case back. The movement consists of 419 parts and looks amazing, thanks to some incredible finishing. The Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech perfectly combines cutting-edge materials with traditional watchmaking and has an official retail price of $26,700.
Singer Reimagined Unleashes Vintage Chronograph Magic
Singer Reimagined unveiled two new watches right before Geneva Watch Days 2023. The Summer of Singer is inspired by the golden age of chronographs, specifically the year 1969, and pioneering automatic chronographs like the Zenith El Primero and Seiko’s caliber 6139. The 1969 Chronograph from Singer features a new time display with improved legibility and the brand’s signature 60-hours chronograph at the center of the deep, black lacquer dial. The case comes in a compact 40 mm with brushed and polished finishes.
The 1969 Timer sports a zero-reset system combined with a flyback mechanism. Both are equipped with a steel bracelet with brushed “H” links designed after the shape of racetrack curbs. These sit in contrast with the rounded, polished center links, allowing the bracelet to play with light.
The AGH 6365 and AGH 6363 movements used in these watches were created by Agenhor to Singer’s specifications. They are essentially re-engineered versions of the Agengraphe and Flytrack calibers, with updated displays and better housing to fit the 40-mm case. The new 1969 Chronograph is nominated for the GPHG and nods to the golden age of chronographs, in a package that is well…reimagined.
As an add-on: The brand also pre-launched the Cocktail Timer, a watch that was created in collaboration with the Fine Watch Club. The chronograph shows different stages of stirring a cocktail – with each stage lending the cocktail a different flavor: strong, balanced, floral, and fruity.
Update: Thursday, August 31
Ulysse Nardin Releases the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry
Ulysse Nardin never fails to surprise us with watches that don’t just impress visually, the brand from Le Locle, Switzerland also creates some of the most technologically imposing timepieces in the industry. For the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, they came up with a dial made of blue silicon. Sounds simple on paper, but it actually has 103 radiant blue marquetry slivers in two different thicknesses and different shades of blue. The result is a lively, eye-catching dial. Not only that, but the beautiful 45-mm white gold case topped with a spectacular box sapphire crystal allows you to see the magic of the movement.
And what a movement it is! The silicon dial is the perfect backdrop for the unique, in-house caliber UN-176 with manual winding. Made up of 249 individual parts, the movement reveals a number of its elements on the dial side that seem to be floating in midair. Among them are the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, the movement’s barrel at 12 (which is what gives the watch its 7-day power reserve), and the power reserve indicator at 4. This configuration confirms Ulysse Nardin’s gift for combining breathtaking designs with superior technology.
The happy few who will pay the €139,200 ($137,200 excluding taxes) it costs will have a watch unlike any other out there.
MB&F Sets A New Standard With the Stunning HM9 Sapphire Vision
We’re used to crazy and highly complicated watches from MB&F, but this time they’ve outdone themselves. After introducing the HM8 Mark 2 in June of this year, MB&F has followed up with a new edition, the HM9 Sapphire Vision. Like its predecessor, the new HM9-SV was inspired by automotive and aviation designs from the 1940s and 50s. A curved, bubble-shaped, three-piece case made of sapphire crystal and precious metal, two fully independent balance wheels with planetary differentials, and two spherical propellers under the movement are just a few of the innovations this new model brings to the table.
The HM9 Sapphire Vision is available in six different versions, each limited to five pieces:
- Two new 2023 editions, one with an 18-karat yellow gold case, green engine, and PVD coating, and one with an 18-karat white gold case, blue engine, and PVD coating
- Two editions in 18-karat 5N+ rose gold, combined with either a black engine with NAC coating or a blue engine with PVD coating
- Two editions in 18-karat white gold, with either a rose gold-plated engine or a purple engine with PVD coating
The official price for the two new 2023 editions is $490,000.
Angelus Chronodate Collection Expanded With the New Titanium Storm Blue Edition
The Angelus Chronodate line is one of the brand’s largest, with eight existing timepieces. The watches come in titanium or gold and with a variety of dial colors. Fans of the brand can choose from green, black, blue, or white dials. With the latest addition, a ninth model has been added to the collection: the Angelus Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue Edition.
Like its predecessors, the brushed titanium timepiece measures 42.5 mm across and 14.25 mm thick, features a box sapphire crystal with AR-coating on both sides, and is water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar, 98 ft). The real eye-catcher, however, is the light or “storm” blue dial with black chronograph subdials. This shade of blue works exceptionally well with the raised numerals and lume-filled hands. Inside the watch beats the Angelus caliber A-500, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. It has a power reserve of 60 hours, 26 jewels, a frequency of 4 Hz, and complications such as a date display and chronograph function.
The new Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue Edition is available on a black rubber strap or a titanium bracelet with a titanium folding clasp. The former demands an investment of 22,900 CHF (approx. 26,000 USD), while the latter Storm Blue Edition will set you back 24,900 CHF (approx. 28,200 USD).
Arnold & Son: Watchmaking, Design, and Spectacle
A view of the moon and space: the Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight is an invitation to dream. The exquisite white gold women’s watch measures 38 mm across and 10.44 mm thick, and is limited to just 18 pieces. The bezel, lugs, crown, and clasp are encrusted with over 100 diamonds; combined with the gradation from sky blue to mint green on the mother-of-pearl dial, this timepiece is truly evocative of the starry night sky.
Arnold & Son‘s new interpretations of their DSTB collection have a simplified but no less fascinating aesthetic. DSTB stands for “Dial-Side True Beats,” referring to the placement of the True Beat seconds on the dial. Beneath the open, finely champfered gold bridge, the watch’s signature anchor powers the second hand. The DSTB 42 collection boasts a redesigned case and improved movement – the watch’s diameter now 42 instead of 44 mm. The in-house caliber A&S6203 is just 5.54 mm thick and offers a 55-hour power reserve. The previous caliber was 7.4 mm thick and offered a power reserve of just 45 hours.
The brand presents this collection in two limited first editions. The DSTB 42 Red Gold takes its name from the 5N gold of its case, the copper content of which gives the watch a reddish hue. The model features a PVD-coated deep blue dial and is limited to 88 pieces. The 950 platinum case of the appropriately named DSTB 42 Platinum, limited to 38 pieces, harmonizes beautifully with the watch’s salmon-colored dial. Both timepieces feature dials with a sunburst pattern radiating from the center of the True Beat seconds.
HYT Does a Bit of Everything With the Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires
This watch has a lot going on. It’s the new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, and it just debuted at Geneva Watch Days 2023 with only 8 examples in existence.
The watch combines HYT‘s signature fluidic hour indication with a bespoke conical tourbillon and animated gems, and all elements are moving at different rates. The result is a horological circus on the wrist, where visual activation and technical prowess are on full display. The watch would have been impressive with only the tourbillon and retrograde fluid mechanism, but the animated gems add a galactic touch to this marvelous machine.
The assembly time for this watch must be massive. It’s comprised of 750 components, including 159 for the tourbillon cage alone, as well as 39 parts for the dial and 66 for the case. The 5N rose gold and black DLC titanium case spans 48 mm in diameter, and the thickness only amplifies the watch’s wrist presence.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is an alchemy of technical horology, fanciful gem setting, and the pure imagination of fluid time-telling.
Update: Wednesday, August 30
Armin Strom Reinvents Their First-Ever Watch With the One Week First Edition
One great piece of life advice is to never forget your roots. For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Armin Strom are harkening back to their first-ever watch as the basis for their latest novelty, breathing new life into the One Week.
The One Week First Edition kicks things up a notch in terms of technology, wearability, and beauty. Let’s start with the inner workings. The new ARM21 caliber keeps the seven-day power reserve of the original movement, but increases the frequency from 2.5 Hz to 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph). Armin Strom recalculated and reconfigured the entire gear train for this change, but with that they achieve more stable chronometric performance.
The twin barrels that hold the massive power reserve are designed with symmetry in mind, and they rotate in opposite directions when wound for more visual intrigue. The ARM21 caliber carries more depth than its predecessor, with multiple viewing angles for its three-dimensional elements like the conical power reserve indicator – mirror-polished and inspired by pocket watch movements. The brand has also moved the kinetic mechanical elements to the dial side as an extra feast for the eyes.
Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V Stardust, Decorated With 400 Diamonds
Urwerk pushes the boundaries of watchmaking with every release. The brand’s best-known timepiece is without a doubt the UR-100, and each new UR-100 model brings something unique to the line’s instantly recognizable design. For the new UR-100V Stardust, Urwerk chose to decorate the stainless-steel case with 400 snow-set diamonds. They’re part of the Stardust concept, which retells the story of how stardust is all around us, in diamonds, stainless steel, and iron mineral. The special snow setting requires a lot of diamonds, seemingly scattered randomly to create a stardust effect. The end result is a watch with diamonds in eight different sizes, offering a smooth tactile experience when you run your finger over it.
But the diamonds aren’t confined to the case. If you take a look at the dial underneath the domed sapphire crystal, you’ll find that the customary minute track is adorned with 36 diamonds. There are also 24 diamonds on the crown, and the stainless steel pin buckle features two rows of 11 diamonds each. It’s an impressive display that adds even more flair to the already jaw-dropping look of the UR-100 with its wandering hour movement. Like all UR-100 models, the Stardust features two recesses on the flanks of its satellite carrier. The first is an odometer showing the distance traveled by the Earth on its own axis in 20-minute increments, i.e., 555 km (345 miles). The second indicates the distance traveled by the Earth around the Sun during the same period, i.e., 35,740 km (22,208 miles). These features make the new Urwerk UR-100V Stardust a unique conceptual piece that is more than just a marvelous array of diamonds.
Laurent Ferrier Unveils the Sport Auto 40
In early 2022, Laurent Ferrier released the Sport Auto Blue. This watch represented Ferrier’s take on the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now, with the new Sport Auto 40, the brand is unveiling its second Sport Auto model. This latest release has a new dial design inspired by the livery of the car that Ferrier competed with in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. With his friend and racing partner François Servanin and third driver François Trisconi, Ferrier drove a colorful Porsche 935 Turbo and finished in third place overall.
This Sport Auto 40 is an homage to that legendary drive. The watch has a 41.5-mm, grade 5 titanium, tonneau-shaped case and matching integrated bracelet. The viridian green gradient on the dial features a fuchsia transfer that forms a cross in the middle and runs around the date window at 3 o’clock. The minute track is a lighter shade of green, and the white gold hands are filled with orange Super-LumiNova to complete the color combination found on the race car. The number 40 is subtly integrated into the white small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Flip the watch over, and you’ll be greeted with the stunning self-winding caliber LF270.01 – a movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The entire watch including the movement is meticulously finished. Only 40 pieces will be made, each retailing for CHF 51,000 (approx. $58,000).
Update: Tuesday, August 29
Alpina Debuts Twin Art Deco Creations at Geneva Watch Days
It’s Geneva Watch Days 2023, but Alpina is taking us all the way back to the 1930s with two new Art Deco-inspired releases. The new Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years watches are standard production models that follow the 14-piece anniversary limited editions the brand released in June.
The first thing you’ll notice about these new watches is the distinct Jazz Age styling. They feature stepped, rectangular cases in steel measuring 32.5 × 39 × 9.71 mm – a perfectly unisex size reminiscent of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The watches are dressed in ostrich leather straps and embellished with the original Alpina logo, a domed sapphire crystal, a railroad minute track, and – for a more modern touch – a display case back revealing the automatic caliber AL-530.
Upon closer inspection, you’ll see that these watch twins aren’t identical. The dials differ in color, of course, but they also have different subdials for the seconds – one circular, the other rectangular. The color of the hands has also been flipped from one to the next and so has the font, with the sleeker numerals of the black dial shifting to more geometric forms on the silver dial.
Call it a revival. Call it a reimagination. We’ll just call it handsome.
Frederique Constant Wraps a New Caliber in Platinum and Meteorite
Here are three things you wouldn’t normally see together: Frederique Constant, platinum, and a meteorite dial. The affordable watchmaker based in Geneva is celebrating its 35th anniversary at Geneva Watch Days with a new in-house caliber (its 31st overall) and a quartet of new watches.
The new caliber FC-735 is debuting in the new Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture, a 40-mm watch featuring a big date, moon phase, and power reserve indicator measuring from 0 to 50 hours. Each complication is controlled by the crown for ease and simplicity.
Buyers will have the choice of purchasing a limited edition, a very limited edition, or two standard production models. The new non-limited additions to the permanent collection come in polished steel with a sun-brushed dial in either blue or silver. There’s a limited edition of 350 pieces in rose gold with a gray anthracite dial. And to honor the 35th anniversary of the brand, Frederique Constant is releasing 35 pieces of the platinum edition with the meteorite dial.
The limited editions are a decidedly upmarket move for the affordable watchmaker, but with a perpetual calendar already in the catalog, the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture and the in-house caliber within are another opportunity for the brand to flex some horological muscle while staying true to its core ethos.
The New Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter: A Tool Watch for the Town
This isn’t your typical diver. The new SUB 300β Sharkhunter is slimmer, sleeker, and dare we say, chicer than its predecessors. Balancing a fashion-forward design with 300 m of water-resistance and a chronometer-certified movement, this para-Doxa-cal diver is a tool watch made for the town.
The 42.5 mm SUB 300β wears smaller than expected thanks to a lug-to-lug of less than 45 mm and a thickness of less than 12 mm – over 1.5 mm slimmer than the 300T. The watch challenges the typical diver design codes with a black-on-black bezel and equally blacked-out date wheel. A black rubber strap matches the grained black dial, and the fauxtina lume (often a regrettable choice) beautifully complements the gold hour markers here.
Is this the best option for a first diving watch? No. Is this a worthy companion for underwater exploration? Not really. This matte black machine is made for those who already love Doxa divers but want something other than standard steel. So, while this may not have the mass-market appeal of their more typical tools, it’s well-suited for a passionate, niche audience who are willing to trade saturation for sophistication.
Maurice Lacroix Presents the Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe
Maurice Lacroix released the Aikon Urban Tribe back in 2021. This special limited edition of the brand’s successful Aikon was given a fully engraved case and bracelet. The engravings were inspired by city skylines, and all 500 pieces sold out in no time. Now, two years later, Maurice Lacroix is bringing back the Urban Tribe in a special 39-mm skeletonized version. The brand worked closely with movement manufacturer Sellita to skeletonize the SW200 base movement, creating the automatic caliber ML135.
Just like the buildings that inspired the engravings, the skeletonized dial and movement beneath the sapphire crystal play with the light that hits them. The rotor is sandblasted and features a sunburst pattern for added visual appeal, working in perfect unison with the laser engravings. If you’d like to exchange the integrated bracelet for one of the many rubber strap options available for the Aikon, the Easy Strap Exchange System enables you to do so quickly and easily. Just like the previous version, this new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe will be available in a limited run of just 500 pieces worldwide.
